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December 13 2008
We reactivated our old McWire RepStrap and attended the Roböxotica - a festival for diy cocktail-robotics. Although we hade some troubles with the stepper motors we were able to print HDPE-shotglasses which were filled with Marius' special Fishermans Friend - Vodka mix.
Because we had huge problems with bending I wrote a small python script that generates gcode for shotglasses in a spiral fashion trying to get the bending distributed in a circular way. It's in SVN here.
Next thing I want to try is HDPE with heated base plate.
via roboeXotica on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Because we had huge problems with bending I wrote a small python script that generates gcode for shotglasses in a spiral fashion trying to get the bending distributed in a circular way. It's in SVN here.
Next thing I want to try is HDPE with heated base plate.
via roboeXotica on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
November 09 2008
With and without Heated Base Plate
On the left side is our motor adapter printed with a heated base plate at about 100-120C (we don't have temperature control at the heated base plate yet). The bottom side is facing upwards. It is a little brownish but extremely flat.
On the right side you see the bottom side of the same model. Its hard to see from this perspective but this was not flat at all. (For all who look closely: actually it's a mirrored version of the model on the left side.)
So the heated plate really helps making the objects much flatter. But if it's too hot it also burns the material a little.
On the left side is our motor adapter printed with a heated base plate at about 100-120C (we don't have temperature control at the heated base plate yet). The bottom side is facing upwards. It is a little brownish but extremely flat.
On the right side you see the bottom side of the same model. Its hard to see from this perspective but this was not flat at all. (For all who look closely: actually it's a mirrored version of the model on the left side.)
So the heated plate really helps making the objects much flatter. But if it's too hot it also burns the material a little.
Heated Base Plate in Action
Action shot of printing with a Heated Base Plate. The plate looks ugly because I tried to make the ABS raft stick better by applying some sugar on the heated copper. It's a mess and does not help very much.
We had problems getting the raft to stick mostly because the to sandwiched PCBs with the nichrome wires in between them are not flat because they are mounted with screws and so they bend. We cant mill it flat because that would remove the copper. So I tried this sugar trick but it did not help as I said before.
I think the trick is to heat the plate more while printing the raft so that it sticks and then go back to about 100C when printing the rest of the object. This seems to be enough to get the bending out of the object but still does not burn the ABS.
Action shot of printing with a Heated Base Plate. The plate looks ugly because I tried to make the ABS raft stick better by applying some sugar on the heated copper. It's a mess and does not help very much.
We had problems getting the raft to stick mostly because the to sandwiched PCBs with the nichrome wires in between them are not flat because they are mounted with screws and so they bend. We cant mill it flat because that would remove the copper. So I tried this sugar trick but it did not help as I said before.
I think the trick is to heat the plate more while printing the raft so that it sticks and then go back to about 100C when printing the rest of the object. This seems to be enough to get the bending out of the object but still does not burn the ABS.
Heated Base Plate In Action - Screw Holder
After the success with the motor adapter we tried printing another screw holder. Unfortunately we gave about 17V to the heating plate and so it got too hot (about 150C I guess) and so the part got burnt a little bit and even shrunk heavily. Too much heat in the base plate is not a good idea. But to make the raft stick it helps.
After the success with the motor adapter we tried printing another screw holder. Unfortunately we gave about 17V to the heating plate and so it got too hot (about 150C I guess) and so the part got burnt a little bit and even shrunk heavily. Too much heat in the base plate is not a good idea. But to make the raft stick it helps.
July 10 2008
“ From this shop in Vienna we bought the 20mm PTFE rods.— WETTLINGER KUNSTSTOFFE ... schnell, pünktlich, zuverlässig.
They also sell HDPE sheets we want to try as a base for printing HDPE becsause the Gaffer shrinks when its heated. ”
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